We cancelled a trip in the Canadian Rockies to head for Alagna from January 28 to February 9, 2009. The quantity of snow was amazing: 2 meters at the base, and more than 5 on top. No rocks, no cliffs, no crevasse, just plain snow everywhere. We've been granted with close to 2 metres of new snow in a week. But most of Alagna's domain is exposed to the south, so it gets crunchy very fast. Despite more than a meter of new snow the week before, we were touching a hard bottom, even with >50cm of very light Utah's quality new snow.

Be aware, when it snows or gets cloudy, the high altitude at Alagna creates white-out conditions. When it happens, very little of the terrain is accessible because you're unable to see where you are going and can't even say if you're going up or down. Off-trail becomes impossible even for very experienced top shape skiers and you don't go to Alagna for the trails; only one trail from top to bottom plus one in a mid-station bowl (Bolchetta del Pisse). More terrain is accessible in the other valleys, but you have to access the summit to switch to the other valleys (including excellent tree skiing in Gressonney), and the summit is frequently closed (wind, avalanche control). So, in bad weather conditions (assuming a lot of snow is bad) almost nothing is accessible if you're in Alagna. Despite this, the village is amazing and among the most beautiful places of all within the Alps (go have a glass at the fantastic Vineria). You'd be better served to sleep on Gressoney's side. However, the distances make it impossible to access all of the terrain. Just getting to Champoluc and back to Alagna would take more than a day (represents more than a 7000 metre drop day). The ground distance makes it almost impossible by car. This provides very limited terrain if you compare it with Jackson Hole or Fernie. If you can access all of the terrain, expect a few large bowls and long valleys, with straight consistant drops (600-800 meters) and very little travelling that will keep you busy for a while.

The off-piste terrain can only be accessed by experienced mounteneers. Finding your way is difficult, avalanche control measures are mandatory and the off-piste itinerarys brings you far in very remote terrain. It's a lot more hostile and technical than in Western Canada or the US. Get a good map before because we didn't find any in Alagna. The ski resort map is clearly insufficient and gives no information about off-piste. Unless you can afford a guide at 250euros a day everyday, get well documented before you arrive.

Despite these inconveniences, we skied 600-800 metres drop powder fields and valleys, with snow up to our belly, most of the week. After years of ski trips in Austria, France, Italy, USA and Canada, we have had the best ski trip of our lives. However, the quality of lodging in Alagna is unbeatable. Baita Walser Realty reach a very high standard of hospitality for a more than reasonable price.

Add to this that we never waited a single minute for any lift (high quality gondola and super fast cable car) in all of the week, including the week-end. The only old equipement is the double fixed Bolchetta chair, but it has little influence and doesn't impair your journey. The installations seems ready to put the Punta Indred lift in service. That will unfortunately give very easy access to some of the most remote backcountry terrain at Alagna. They will no longer be the dreams powderfields we have experienced this year with a little hicking.